The menu at Aqua Vino in Utica will not startle you. If you enjoy traditional Italian steakhouse style choices with a healthy dose of seafood options, you will be comfortably pleased with the selection. So the significant question for us on our recent Wednesday visit was about how well executed the old favorites would be.

We left very happy indeed. Aqua Vino has a full bar and a wine list that offers bottles from $18 to $150. Our choice, Sbirolo (Barbera d'Alba, Marchesi di Barolo), was a fairly light bodied wine full of black fruity flavors, a good companion for Italian food at $34.