Long Island has no shortage of Italian restaurants. Whether you're craving classic lasagna or more nuanced regional specialties, here are the standout eateries to consider.

Cafe Testarossa (499 Jericho Tpke., Syosset): Still going strong at 33 years old, Billy Sansone’s modern Italian is the very model of a chef-driven restaurant. Where other trattorias of its era are gone, Sansone’s has evolved: Gone is the pizza topped with salmon, roasted peppers and mozzarella; the tagliatelle with Gorgonzola and grilled chicken.