When it comes to Italian desserts, it doesn’t get more iconic than tiramisù. Sure, arguments can be made for the importance of cannoli and bomboloni, budino and torta di mele, but—at least in Italian restaurants in the U.S.—no sweet is more popular than the cocoa-dusted “pick-me-up.” (Except maybe gelato—but that’s really more a staple than a dessert, right?) Its vaulted status is clear in Italy, too, as tiramisu is on the list of official dishes of Friuli-Venezia.

The only issue with tiramisù, though, is the inconsistency in quality. Though the origins of the dish are often disputed (some say it dates back to the 17^th century, others trace it to a bakery named Le Beccherie in 1969), most agree on the staple ingredients: savoiardi (ladyfinger) cookies, espresso, sometimes some liquor, and a whipped mixture of sugar, eggs, and mascarpone cheese, all topped off with chocolate or cocoa powder.