At Centro Trattoria in Hampton Bays, a vintage black-and-white photo mural on one of the dining room walls shows how much fun and glamorous Italian dining can be. Five Broadway showgirls, circa 1948, participate in a pasta-eating contest where they each eat a plate of spaghetti without their hands. If you choose wisely at this updated roadhouse, you might have an equally good time.

East End restaurants can be sleepy in the winter, so the roaring crowd in the packed bar one Friday night was a surprise. Centro, in the spot that formerly housed Villa Toscano, has only recently opened, but its staff seems to be dealing well with its popularity. A valet parking system efficiently handles a tight parking situation out back. Dropping the car off at the door, we barely had time to admire the handsome glass-walled wine storage room near the entrance before our coats were checked and we were whisked to a table.