When Maria Perreca Papa announced last year that she bought and would be reviving Cornells in Little Italy, which closed at the beginning of the pandemic after 77 years in Schenectady, 68 in the same family, Susie Davidson Powell and I discussed reviewing Cornells 4.0.

Papa, who owns the restaurant More Perreca's and co-owns the adjoining, century-old Perreca's Bakery, across a parking lot from Cornells, said she'd rehired virtually the entire staff, including bringing back the former co-head chef to run the kitchen. And the menu would showcase most of the favorites from the past, Papa said.