It’s a sunny, carefree Tuesday afternoon in the Hamptons, and Il Buco al Mare is filling up for lunch. The crowd is rather surprising given that the restaurant opened only in early June, but then the arrival of a seafood-focused Italian spot from a group as esteemed as this means that word travels fast.

Soon, dishes from the kitchen are whirring by: an ancient-grain focaccia beautifully adorned with squash blossoms; burrata with cherries and pistachio pesto; roasted clams with grilled bread; seared octopus with smoked paprika and olive oil. It all looks delicious, artful, perfect for a Mediterranean-style lunch (or dinner) a few blocks from some of the best beaches in the world.