Il Cantinori is that rare thing in New York: it's going into its fourth decade, looks pretty much the same as it did in 1983, has a menu that does not stray far from its Tuscan roots, and has a fiercely faithful clientele that comes time after time either to eat their favorite dishes or to see what seasonal items Antonio Ciardi -- here from Day One -- will tempt them with.

Il Cantinori's design is handsome rather than dazzling, yet from the start it has always attracted the downtown artists, musicians and fashionistas (the street is lined with galleries), who bank on seeing one of the city's grandest, most effusive floral displays in the dining room's center table.

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