You might not be able to get on a plane to Italy right now, but in New York, at least, you can treat yourself to a tasty flight of Italian cheese. From the rich robiole of Piedmont to the creamy, dreamy burrata of Puglia, Italy’s formaggi offer a fascinating lens into the history, culture, and traditions of each of the country’s 20 regions.

New Yorkers have access not only to a stellar selection of Italian cheeses at shops around town, but also to the passionate owners and cheesemongers who typically delight in sharing the stories of the people and places behind the wedges and wheels in their cases. Following are five to seek out when you’re craving Italian cheese and food culture in NYC.