It’s peak time on Saturday night and a child is screaming. The rest of the crowd registers only a few decibels lower. And in a few minutes, the sound is mostly laughs. In Oceanside, Noble Kitchen & Cocktails is clearly the place to be. The weekend experience, of course, is different from the weekday, when your voice may just echo. Still, even quieter, Noble often can be very good — a welcome neighborhood hangout a few Hondas away from the railroad parking lot.

This had been the address of Butera’s and, before that, Lawson Pub, which had two lives on the premises. Noble refreshes the look and you could call it a makeover, but not so extreme that the old layout has been abandoned. Nobody minds. A lot of the crowd, which spans at least three generations, has checked in knowing exactly what to expect.