At lunchtime, you’ll find Dora Marzovilla in her usual spot: perched behind a marble-topped table at I Trulli in NoMad, making pasta by hand on a traditional wooden board from Italy.

“We tied [the boards] on top of our suitcases with rope when we came over,” the 82-year-old says, recalling her family’s trek from Puglia, in Southern Italy, to New York, nearly 50 years ago. “Back then, you could bring a lot of luggage.”