A particular aura clings to the old farmhouse on Route 25A, on the edge of St. James, where Restaurant Mirabelle got its start in 1984 (Maria Reuge, wife of Mirabelle chef Guy Reuge, also grew up here). Later, Kitchen A Bistro spent 20 years in the house, a long run by any standard, before closing this spring.

Pietro Cucina Italiana, its newest resident, opened in September. Judging from the weekend crowds, the food and ambience at 404 North Country Rd. still kick up a buzz — and maybe too strong a one: On a recent Saturday night, with the dining room full, reservations were more of a concept than an organizing principle. Our party of two waited nearly an hour for our table, with no communication or apologies proffered until a hand wave from co-owner Pietro Molendini guided us to the table.