In early September, Porta Napoli in Harrison took the place of Rue des Crepes, known for its theatrical Parisian décor and its neatly folded buckwheat crepes. It is Naples, not Paris, that the new proprietors hope to bring to mind. "Authenticity" is the catchword. Wood embers glow in a fire-engine-red pizza oven, which spreads cheer like a giant emoji.

Menu headings are in Italian (sfizi, insalate, pizze rossi, pizze bianche). The flour in the supple pizza dough is "00" (doppio zero), as required by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. The wine list covers regions from Sicily to the Alps but never strays beyond Italy's borders.

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Source: http://www.nytimes.com/