If an eatery could be a haircut, Frank’s Ice Cream and Restaurant would be a mullet with ice cream in the front and dine-in Italian in the back. It’s the most unassuming and unlikely spot, tucked along the Albany Shaker Road, and you will likely know it’s there only if you frequent that part of Colonie or Loudonville.

I had asked readers of my Food Life newsletter where to regularly find rum-raisin ice cream, and Frank’s name came up numerous times. But with veal and peppers and meatballs on the menu along with fish fry, hot dogs and fried clams, I knew I had to go.