Ever walked into an old-school Italian-American deli and stood in line for a sandwich, greedily inhaling the atmosphere? Fresh bread’s yeasty breath, funk from cured meats and aged cheese, the acetic cologne of pickles and vinegar dressing, all for free.

In Buffalo, you must leave the city limits, and venture into the wilds of Clarence. Dave Lyman, the fish fry whisperer, first led me to the unassuming plaza where Louie’s Deli & Italian Imports still makes sandwiches from the good old days.