There is no shortage of hugs to go around at the recently reimagined Roncone’s Italian Restaurant on Lyell Avenue in Rochester.

Jimmy Paulino, Roncone's owner and chef, is now carrying on an 80-year tradition of serving soul warming Italian American comfort food and maintaining a popular gathering spot for patrons, from paesanos to politicians to police. Jimmy, his son Dominic, and his life partner Tina Rotolo get props for taking a chance on a legendary joint off the beaten path of suburbia.