If you’ve really explored the verdant, hilly byways of Tuscany, you know that the eating opportunities are not confined to historic osterias and roadside rotisseries. More innovative places are tucked away here and there that tinker with the country’s cuisine while rarely attracting tourists.

Now modern Tuscan cooking has arrived on Wall Street at Etrusca, located at 53 Stone Street — a cobbled Dutch alleyway dating to the 1600s known more for its gastropubs and pizzerias than for fine dining.