A few weeks ago I heaped high praise about the 22-year-old midtown Italian restaurant San Pietro, whose owner, Gerardo Bruno has long been one of New York's premier hosts.

Upon writing that, I realized that it's been at least a decade since I'd dined at his brother Giuseppe's restaurant, Sistina, located on the upper east side for 30 years now. I decided to see how the two places are alike and how they are not.

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