When my friend Laura and I met at the new Trattoria Fortunata in Saratoga Springs, all we could think about during the first moments at our cozy table, with its fresh flowers and red-and-white-checked tablecloth, were crepes and pommes frites. For more than 20 years, this friendly nook on Phila Street was the home of Ravenous, the city’s French-inspired creperie.

Now Kyle Geniti, a 28-year-old Fonda native with a college degree in biochemistry and English, is the chef/owner, and Saratogians are buzzing about his Italian-American and contemporary American cuisine, which one can enjoy as casual dining or through takeout.