If you’re in the mood for top notch Italian food, the new Vaticano Restaurant in Fort Erie will most definitely scratch that itch. But be warned: this Italian restaurant is extremely Italian, like, to an almost comical degree. While having dinner with my wife there recently, we heard Dean Martin’s ode to pizza pies, That’s Amore, not once, not twice, but three different times over the course of dinner.

If this restaurant were a dude, it would be driving around on a Vespa with its shirt unbuttoned, making wild hand gestures while shouting "Ciao Bella!" at passersby. Its Italiano stylings are all the more pronounced given the fact that it sits right in the heart of Fort Erie’s famous Chinatown or Wonton Way as some know it. The strip along the waterfront in the town’s east end includes Happy Jack’s, Ming Teh, Osaka 1 Sushi, and until recently, May Wah.