It's hard to do old-school Italian with a straight face nowadays. It's been that way since Manhattan's Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi opened their three odes to Italian-American cuisine: Torrisi Italian Specialties, Carbone, and Parm.

These restaurants dared to admit that, sure, the mid-century Italian joints of our grandparents' generation might be old hat—but we still have a lingering affection for eggplant parm made with Progresso breadcrumbs. In their restaurants, Torrisi and Carbone (certified hipsters), present homages to their Italian-American heritage with irony.

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Source: http://www.westchestermagazine.com