For a restaurant that opened over a decade ago, Nonna still feels like a secret. It hovers on the edges of the spotlight, watching as newer openings and other Dallas favorites steal our attention. Its website hails from an era of the internet when people thought it was a good idea to imprison every word of text in stationary GIFs.

Each year, Nonna takes home the silver medal when critics hand gold to a similar restaurant, Lucia, in the pasta Olympics. Indeed, while Lucia is on every list of the city’s best restaurants, Nonna often gets snubbed.