Pink sauce and punches. My first meal at Parma involved both, because Chef Marc isn't one to stay in the kitchen. The sauce, a luscious potion of imported tomatoes, a touch of basil and fresh cream, made simple cheese ravioli sing.

As for the punches, the third-generation Italian was a Golden Gloves champion back in Miami in the '80s, so when I asked how to throw a solid hook he did an interactive demo in the busy dining room. Nobody looked. The food is that good.

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