The unusual calm of Gran Caffè Gambrinus in Naples, a legendary cafe that has been emptied by coronavirus restrictions, belies the turmoil roiling Italy’s coffee community.

The cafe is part of a clash between Neapolitan coffee culture and that of larger Italy, both of which are seeking international recognition for their contributions to world coffee heritage. The rivalry has turned on them, however, after their competing bids torpedoed an attempt to earn acclaim from a United Nations agency.