Did my use of “rules” and “Italian” in one sentence cause a second glance? Other than keeping that left lane on the Autostrada open for high-speed designer cars, or maybe dutifully respecting the ZTL signs (Zona Traffico Limitato) that come equipped with a stealthy camera, most rules in Italy are made to be bent if not broken. Mere suggestions, as an Italian friend once told me.

True enough…with one major exception: food and drink. The do’s and don’ts of eating and drinking are serious business in Italy, more of a national sacristy than just good manners. While native Italians are probably born with these rules imprinted on their DNA, the rest of us have to be willing students…or risk a few incredulous looks branding us the “rude tourist.”