One thing I enjoy about returning to a destination is the chance to update the outdated impressions I’ve held in my mind from previous visits. Europe is always changing — and on my last visit to Sicily’s capital of Palermo I discovered that it’s become a whole new city in recent years. It’s cleaner, safer, and more efficient than it was in years past. But it still retains its colourful edge — and that’s why I love it.

Palermo has revitalized itself with new museums, gentrified neighbourhoods, pedestrianized streets, and upscale shops and hotels. The Mafia’s influence has also significantly diminished. Sure, the traffic is a free-for-all, and even the city’s prettiest public spaces are rough around the edges. It’s like Naples in that regard — but most visitors come to appreciate Palermo’s grittiness and what locals call its “bella chaos.”