If you thought Italians were only obsessed with soccer, think again. With the conclave to elect Pope Francis’ successor still days away, a different game has taken over the Eternal City. Welcome to “toto-cardinale” — a spirited, slightly irreverent, and utterly Italian ritual of guessing who will be the next pope, called by the betting market, prohibited in Italy, “toto-papa.”

It’s as if all of Rome, from altar boys to taxi drivers, has suddenly become conclave experts. The Vatican may keep the Sistine Chapel under tight security, but out in the streets, piazzas, and even trattorias, the speculation runs wild — and everyone is certain they know who’s in pole position.