Italy is well known for its ability to slow the hands of time. But in Ginostra, a 40-person village at the foot of an almost constantly erupting volcano, time doesn’t just move slowly, it seems to have stepped away altogether.

On the southern flank of Stromboli—one of the Aeolian archipelago’s seven volcanic islands and among the most active volcanoes in Europe—Ginosta is entirely car and scooter free. Without roads or paths connecting it to the rest of the island’s settlements, it’s reachable exclusively by boat.