Beer is muscling in on wine’s traditional territory at the dinner table — even in Italy, vino’s spiritual homeland. You’ll find proof at Terra, the new full-service restaurant on the third floor of Eataly, the sprawling and deliciously decorated Italian marketplace that celebrity chef Mario Batali and partners opened amid great fanfare late last year at the Prudential Center.

Terra’s show-stopping centerpiece is a dramatic barrel room behind the bar where 15 beers age in 59-gallon wood casks. “We started putting beer in the barrels in January and let them age until we opened nine weeks ago,” said John McKusick, Eataly’s beer director and barrel master.