Palermo is one of those places that refuses to be pinned down. With a population circling 650,000, Sicily’s capital is all about contrasts. Grand faded palaces, raucous street markets, peeling paint next to golden Baroque domes, and the whiff of panelle frying somewhere nearby. 

It’s a city that looks a bit wild at first—gritty, noisy, and gloriously lived-in—but scratch the surface and you’ll find a place that’s endlessly sociable and loaded with layers of history. If you ever fancied a daily routine that runs on sunshine, chats at the corner café, and impromptu seaside strolls before dinner, living in Palermo may be your kind of thing.